Colonial Williamsburg Digital Library

FRANCES WEBB — MILLINER

Frances Webb, wife of John Pearson Webb, was the first milliner to appear in the records for Williamsburg. Only three advertisements of hers offering millinery for sale appear in the Virginia Gazette prior to 1757:

Just imported in the Ship RESTORATION, Capt. John WILCOX, from LONDON, A Quantity of Lace, Cambricks, Holland Calicoes, Chintz's, printed Linnens, Kenting, Velvet Caps and Hoods, Women's Gloves, Silk Shoes, Glass Rings, and other Milinary Goods, which are to be sold by the Subscriber, at her house in Palace Street, Williamsburg…
Frances WebbParks, ed., June 20, 1745)

Just Imported,
A Choice Parcel of Lace, Cambricks, Ribbons, Gause hand-kerchiefs, Velvet Hoods, lac'd and plain, Mantelets and Cloaks, Chints, printed Linens, Callicose, Silk Stockings, Fans, and Fan-mounts, Children's quilted Caps, and other Millinary Goods. Also, a curious Collection of Toys, and are to be Sold by the Subscriber, in Palace-Street, Williamsburg.
Frances Webb (Parks, ed., March 27, 1746)

To be SOLD, at very reasonable Rates, by the Subscriber, in Williamsburg,
A Choice Assortment of Silks… Silk laced Bonnets, Hair Hats… and all Sorts of Milinary Goods… a great Variety of Fans and Mounts…
Frances and John Pearson Webb.(Hunter, ed., July 10, 1752)

In April 1757 Frances Webb gave notice that she had discontinued the millinery business:

THE Subscriber having left off the Millinery Business, and removed into the country, desires all Persons indebted to her to pay their respective Ballances to John Pearson Webb, and those who have any Demands against her are desired to apply to the said Webb for Payment, in Williamsburg. Fans will be mounted as usual; and Orders left with the said John Webb, will be forwarded to
Frances Webb(Hunter, ed., April 22, 1757)

CATHERINE RATHELL — Milliner

In August 1765 John Norton Jordon of London in writing to Robert Carter of Nomini Hall, Virginia, said:

"Mrs. Rathell because of misfortune is coming to Williamsburg to set up Milliner's Shop."(Ms. letters of Robert Carter of Nomini Hall — 4 boxes — Virginia Historical Society)

In April 1766 Mrs. Rathell had arrived in Virginia and was then in Fredericksburg, where she advertised as a "Milliner Lately Arrived From London":

CATHERINE RATHELL,
Milliner,
LATELY ARRIVED FROM LONDON, at present in Fredericksburg, Virginia, has a large assortment of European and other GOODS, suitable for Ladies and Gentlemen, which she sells very cheap.

Among other things she has the best flowered and plain satins, flowered and plain modes, sarcenets, and Persians 5 flowered, striped and plain English gauze, from 5a.9d. to 12s. a yard, a great variety of blond, minionet, thread, and black lace, joining blonds for Ladies caps and handkerchiefs; black and white gauze handkerchiefs, wedding and other fans from 4s.6d. to 30s. ready made stomachers and knots, a great variety of ribands, French beads and earrings, Ladies caps from 2s.6d. to 25s., fly caps and lappets, egrets of all sorts, silk and leather gloves and mits, Summer hats and cloaks, cardinals, French tippets, black gauze and catgut, love riband for mournings, silk, thread, and cotton stockings, for Ladies and Gentlemen, Gentlemens laced ruffles from 30s. to 10£ bags for wigs and solitaires, Irish Linens and tapes in variety, garnet and Bristol stone and pearl sleeve buttons set in silver, garnet and gold brooches, a variety of silver shoe buckles, in the newest fashion for Ladies and Gentlemen, with knee buckles for the latter, silver thimbles with steel bottoms pencils in silver cases, enammelled nutmeg graters, best needles sorted in due proportion from the finest cambrick to the largest darning needles, in such variety as never before imported; with some articles of STATIONARY, viz. Blank legers, memorandum and pocket books in great variety, and sundry articles too tedious to mention.

She also makes all sorts of MILLINERY, in the best and newest taste, for the following prices: Full dress suits at 11s.6d. laced do. at 9s.6d. plain do. at 7s.6d. also washes and makes up all sorts of laces and gauzes, so as to be little inferiour to new.

(Virginia Gazette, Purdie and Dixon, eds. April 18, 1766)

In advertising as "Catherine Rathell Milliner of Fredericksburg" in the Virginia Gazette (Rind, ed.) of February 19, 1767, Mrs. Rathell closes by saying:

…The present scarcity of Cash induces her to attend a few days at Williamsburg, during the sitting of next Assembly, from whence it will be more convenient for many Ladies and Gentlemen to furnish themselves than from town. The several articles are so well chosen and afford such a Variety she ventures to recommend it to such Ladies and Gentlemen as want such for themselves or Friends, to defer supplying themselves till her Arrival when she flatters herself they will be no less pleased, than
Their humble Servant
CATHERINE RATHELL

Following the above notice, Mrs. Rathell carried long advertisements from Fredericksburg in the Virginia Gazette for April 13 and July 15, 1767. Among the items listed are "fashionable assortment of caps, ribbons, egrets, fillets, Gentlemen, youths and boys ditto, blue, green and white fine riding ditto for Ladies, feathers for ditto, all sorts of gold bands, buttons and loops, light horseman's caps for boys… "

A letter from Catherine Rathell to Mrs. Mercer indicates the type of millinery and other goods furnished by Mrs. Rathell to her trade:

[Fredericksburg, 1767?]

Dear Madam
I have only a few moments to tell you that Mrs. DICK called to me yesterday Morng to bespake a suit of Lace Linen for Miss MERCER, but she wold not venture to chuse the lace without your seeing it, and some other things which are as follows, and I send them by Mr. Mercers Man—Christmass—Viz

16 Yards of fine Broad lace at 19 Shillgs pr yard.
11 Yards Narrower kind at 12/6 pr Yd
a Superfine pr of paste & firestone clamps	6. 0. 0
White flowd Trimed Satin Cloke	4.15. 0
a White Hatt Trimed with Robd & Lace	1.15. 0
2 pair of white Silk Stockgs at 20/	2. 0. 0
1 Blond Hood Cap	1. 5. 0
1 Queens Fly with pink & white Egret	1. 5. 0
1 fly cap & Lapits wth 29 pink Egret	1. 7. 0
l Do Blue Egret	1. 9. 6
1 pair of gentlemens lace Ruffles	4.10. 0
White fan	0.16. 0
fine Carved & painted Do	1. 10. 0
2 pr White Gloves	0. 5. 0

Mrs. C: Rathell
Send word what sort of a Handkerchief Miss Mercer likes. I hope she will allow me the honour of helping to Dress her the Day of all Days. The lace cannot be Cut (on address side of letter) (New York Historical Society — copy in Research Department)

In October 1771, Catherine Rathell, milliner and store-keeper, had opened a shop in Williamsburg "where Mr. Ayscough lately lived, opposite to the South side of the Capitol." There she advertised "at the cheapest Rates…A GENTELL ASSORTMENT OF MERCERY, MILLINERY, JEWELLERY, &c…" (Virginia Gazette, Purdie and Dixon, eds., October 17, 1771)

In December 1771, John Norton, merchant of London, ordered goods shipped at once to Mrs. Rathell in Williamsburg:

[December 29, 1771]

Invoice of Goods to be sent With all the Speed Posible to Mrs. Catherine Rathell in Williamsburg Virginia by Mr. Norton (London)

8 pair of very best Neat Paste Shoe Buckles from 30/ to 50/ a pair

12 pair of Neat high Thread Paste Knee do 1-¾ Inch Long at 10 or 11/ a ps.

12 pr. of handsome New Fashion Gilt Shoe Do With knee to Match but not very small

18 pr. of Plaited Carved Shoe Buckles. I bought them in London last July for 2/ a pr.

7

1 piece of 25 yards of Irish Stout yard Wide Linen at 14d or 15 a yard

3 pair of Plaited Soop Ladles 4 pair of Silver Sauce Spoons with round Bowls & Crooket Handles like the Ladles

3 Good Second hand Silver Watches Cuped from 50/ to £3.

3 Neat Do--Do Pinch Back With plain Green & Blue fish Skin Cases

1 Gross of Bone or Ivory Bokdings

3 Dozn. of Silver----Do.

2 pair of handsome Plaited Candle Sticks from 4 to 5 pounds

2 pair of flat Plaited Do 1dth Snuffers and Extinguishers

24 Very Neat Moroco Pocket Books Pocket Books some with Silver Edges & Pockets at Each Ends, one End with a Lock & Key, and some Stitched with Silver Wire from 15/ to a Guinea, they must be very handsome & have good Instruments

24 Smaller Do from 4/6 to 10/ with Instruments

12 Asses Sking Memordm Books in Gilt Leather Cases & Ribon to pull out

18 of the Best London Razors with Crooket Backs

12 London Do Streight Backs

6 yards of Bright Pink half Ell Pelling Sattin at 3/6 p. yard

6 yards of Handsome Blue Do---Do---at Do

36 yards of White Flannell, the thickest & Best that Can be got for 13 or 14D p yd N.B. it must be very White as its for Gentlemens Jackets

1 Gross of Blue Silk Jacket Buttons at 2/6 pr Gross the Colour to match the Peelg.

1 Gross of Pink Silk Buttons to Match the Pink Sattin at Do

1 Dozn. of Best and Neatest Buck or Doe Sking Gloves added to 2 Dozn. I sent to you for by Mr. Norton

2 Dozn. of Best Sham Beaver Gloves, if they are very good to send 3 Dozn.

3 Dozn. of the Neatest New Fashion Gentlemens sleeve Buttons

Williamsburg 29 Decr. 1771

12 Handsome Necklaces of Diferent Sorts & Coulars Set in Silver and Some with Earrings from 18 to 20/ a ps.

3 Garnet Springs from 9 to 12/ a ps.

1 oz of Gold flat )

1 oz of Silver Do )

1 oz of Bright Blue Silk Twist ) all to Make Play Purses

1 oz of handsome Pink Do )

1 oz of Green Do )

1 Soft flesh Brush )

ENDORSED:
Virga. 29th Decr. 1771/ Cath. Rathell/Reced 3d Mar. 1772/Goods entd. pa 73/ ans. the March /p Robertson.

(John Norton & Sons Merchants of London and Virginia, pp. 211-212.)

Within a month Norton had sent out another invoice of goods to Mrs. Rathell:

Invoice of Goods to be Sent with all the dispatch posible to Cathn. Rathell in Williamsburg Virginia
January the 31st 1772

[only items which seem to apply to millinery and such are listed — taken from complete invoice]

2 pieces of very handsome Black & White Second Mourning Ribbon

3 pieces of Black plain Edged Sattin Ribbon for tieing hair

18 Very Neat green Leather Ladies Pocket Books Silver Locks & good Instruments, 12 of them with Pockets at each End.

12 yards of neat spriged Gause undressed 4 yards of a Sort

3 Dozn. of Blond Lace for Do. from l/6 to 2/6 p yard

6 Nice White Silver paperd Weding fans, pierced Ivery Stocks

4 White Quilted Peeling Child Bed Basket & Pin Cushions well & safe Packed up or the Satin will Mildue & spot

6 cards of Childrens very Neat Small Locket Button Set in Silver

…

6 powder Machines [?]

6 Tambore floward with Silk Sword Knots

200 of the very long Bonnet or Hat Pins yt are 6 Inches Long

…

1 Piece of Love Ribd for to tie in Boes Stomachers & Sleeve Knots

ENDORSED: Virga 31st Jnry 1772 Cath' Rathell/ Recd. the 16th May/ Goods Ents. pa: 91/Ans. the July/ p White.

(John Norton & Sons Merchants of London and Virginia, pp. 218-219.)

In 1772, Catherine Rathell carried long advertisements listing goods sold at her store. Millinery is always noted as having been received or "just imported" from London:

HAVING received from London, on Commission, a Parcel of Neat GOODS…
She continues to sell, at her Store, as usual, a very neat Assortment of MILLINERY…(Virginia Gazette, Purdie and Dixon, eds., Jan. 30, 1772)

Just imported from LONDON, and selling by the Subscriber, A LARGE Assortment of MILLINERY, and other GOODS, consisting of the neatest Hats, Cloaks, Bonnets, Teresas, and Whisks, Caps, Hoods, and Fillets,…Patent Net Hoods,… Boys trimmed Satin Caps, Ladies newest fashioned Riding Hats bound and trimmed with Turbans and Feathers,…Gentlemens fine Beaver Hats…fine Night Caps…(Ibid., April 23, 1772.)

Just IMPORTED in the last Ships from London, and to be SOLD by the Subscriber at her store opposite the Raleigh in Williamsburg,
A VERY large and neat Assortment of MILINERY and JEWELLERY, consisting of white Satin and Lustrings, Trimmings for ditto, 9 black and coloured hats and Bonnets, Silk Petticoats, wedding fans and Breast Flowers,… a new Assortment of Patent New Hoods, Muslin, Gauze, Catgut and Wire,… a large Assortment of Ribands, ribbed and plain Silk,…
N.B. She purposes, if a House can be got, to reside at Petersburg from the End of this Court until April, where Ladies and Gentlemen who Please to Favour her with their Commands may be supplied with the above Articles. (Virginia Gazette, Purdie and Dixon, eds., Oct. 22, 1772)

Mrs. Rathell continued to operate in Williamsburg "at her Store opposite the Raleigh:" during 1773, 1774 and until April 1775 according to Virginia Gazette notices. Along with the general assortment of merchandise, she offered to customers millinery of various types. (Purdie and Dixon, October 31, 1773; Ibid., October 20, 1774; Dixon and Hunter, February 25, 1775; Ibid., April 22, 1775.)

In October 1775, M. Brodie (mantua-maker) advertised that Mrs. Rathell's store goods along with shop fixtures, etc., were for sale:¹

TO BE SOLD,
At Meeting of the MERCHANT'S in OCTOBER,
All MRS. Rathe11's STOCK IN TRADE, consisting of many different Articles. — I request all who are indebted to the said Mrs. Rathell will be so kind, at this meeting, as to pay off their Accounts to John Tazewell, Esqr; of this city, or to the Subscriber, at Mrs. Rathell's Store, who are authorized to receive such Debts.
M. BRODIE.

At the same Time will be sold a large BOW WINDOW, with Bars and Shutters, some SHOW GLASSES, and GLASS CASES.

(Virginia Gazette, Dixon and Hunter, eds. Oct. 14, 1775)

SARAH PITT — Milliner

Sarah Pitt² appears in records in 1767 as a store-keeper and milliner. As with Mrs. Rathell, Sarah Pitt advertised that she "has imported in the Argyle, from London, a valuable assortment of Millinery," more particularly described as follows:

…Womens satin hats and bonnets, girls do. boys silk hats and caps with feathers, ribands,…French and Italian egrets and breast flowers, skeleton wires,…black and coloured ostrich feathers,…pins, Milliners needles, common do …
Sarah Pitt.(Ibid., Purdie and Dixon, eds., Nov. 12, 1767)

In 1768 (October) and 1769 (May and October), Sarah Pitt continued to advertise in the Virginia Gazette. In December 1769, she offered the usual list of goods and millinery as previously — all imported and sold "at a very low advance." At the bottom of the advertisement Sarah Pitt gave this notice:

N. B. As she has an assistant just arrived from London, who understands the millinery business, which she proposes to carry on, mounting fans, and making cardinals and bonnets she hopes for a continuance of the Ladies custom, which shall be acknowledged as a favor.(Virginia Gazette, Purdie and Dixon, eds., Dec. 14, 1769)

A long notice by Sarah Pitt appeared in the Virginia Gazette of April 19, 1770, dated from Williamsburg. She emphasized that she still imported "a large assortment of MILLINERY, and other GOODS, as a low advance." Among the millinery items listed were:

…crimp'd caps with lappets, gauze fillets, neat dressed caps, puffed ditto, laced ditto, large dressed fillets and flowers, small ditto, pink and blue lined childrens caps, lace and flower caps, Italian caps, common ditto, boys black silk hats, Ostrich feathers, blue, green, and white sattin caps, gold and velvet pocket books, gold pincushions, … rich fashionable ribbands,…white and blue feathers,… milleners common and darning needles, minikins, short whites and corking pins,… toys…ladies black furred riding hats, feathers for ditto, mens beaver and castor hats, childrens ditto laced and plain…
Sarah Pitt

N.B. As she has got a millener come in, she carries on the millenery business; also making of cardinals, bonnets and hats, and mounting of fans, &c.

(Ibid., Rind, ed.)

The death of Sarah Pitt was reported in the Virginia Gazette of November 12, 1772.

JANE AND MARGARET HUNTER—Milliners and Store-Keepers Williamsburg 1766-1780

Jane Hunter employed her sister, Margaret who was a trained milliner, as her assistant. When she returned to England, Margaret took over the business. The earliest date on record that Jane Hunter was operating in Williamsburg in October 10, 1766:

JUST IMPORTED, And sold by the subscriber in Williamsburg, A GENTEEL ASSORTMENT of MILLINERY GOODS, viz. Fashionable (ca.?) Italian caps, egrets and fillets, breast flowers, turbans and tippets, best French bead, pearl and jet necklaces, earrings, minionet and blonde lace, blond net, yard and yard and (sic) wide book muslins, fine thick muslin, plain and spotted gauze, fashionable ribands and trimmings, black love ribands, handkerchiefs, and egrets, black fans, black mittens, French and 11 and gazed kid and lamb gloves and mittens, white fans and white shoes, floss and netting silk, cotton thread, skeleton and skein wire, calash bonnets, &c.
JANE HUNTER

? FANS mounted, and all sorts of MILLINERY made up in the newest fashion.

(Virginia Gazette, Purdie and Dixon, eds., Oct. 19 [17], 1766)

In October 1767 Jane Hunter announced in the Virginia Gazette that "a sister had just arrived from London who understands the millinery business" and that the two would not only sell "genteel Assortment of Millinery" but also would make "hats and bonnets, in the newest taste; where Ladies may be supplied on the shortest notice":

Just IMPORTED, and to be SOLD at the lowest prices,
A GENTEEL ASSORTMENT OF
MILLINERY,
CONSISTING OF
FASHIONABLE ribands, suits of blond lace, caps, fillets, stomachers and sleeve knots, tippets, breast flowers, egrets, India pearl, French bead, and jet necklaces, earrings and egrets, fine edgings, pearl, Jacob's ladder, doubled edged joining, and other minionet laces, blond and black do. plain and figured gauzes, parisnet, fine catgut, white crape, great choice of fine thick and book muslins, lawns, cambrick, long lawn, fashionable trimmings, white and coloured fans, black silk gloves and mittens, leather do. fine cotton and French thread, skeleton and skeign wire, paste hair pins and shoe buckles, calash and other bonnets and hats. Also a great variety of fan mounts.

The subscriber having a sister just arrived from LONDON, who understands the millinery business, she hopes to carry it on to the satisfaction of those who shall favour them with their commands. They have imported all the materials for making hats and bonnets, in the newest taste; where ladies may be supplied on the shortest notice, by
Their humble servants,
M. & J. HUNTER

(Virginia Gazette, Purdie and Dixon, eds., Oct. 1, 1767)

In October 1768 Jane Hunter advertised among other millinery items "fashionable trimmings…fringe for mourning…"(Ibid., Oct. 20, 1768.)

Jane Hunter's "state of health" took her to England in May 1769. Her sister, Margaret, operated the business in Williamsburg during Jane Hunter's absence. (Ibid., April 13, 1769.)

In May 1771 Margaret Hunter located her millinery shop as "next Door to mr Robert Anderson's Tavern." At the same time she advertised that "She makes Ladies Hats, Bonnets, Cloaks and Cardinals; and Mounts Fans in the neatest Manner."(Ibid., May 2, 1771.)

In June 1771 the notice in the Virginia Gazette is styled thus: "MARGARET HUNTER, MILLINER, Williamsburg." (Ibid., June 20, 1771.)

In October 1771 Margaret Hunter continued to advertise "A FRESH Assortment of MILLINERY, &c" at the shop lately occupied by Dr. Andrew Anderson. (Ibid., Oct. 24,. 1771.)

One year later, Margaret Hunter was still in Williamsburg, advertising her millinery and other goods:

Imported in the PLANTER, Captain MILLER, and to be SOLD by the Subscriber in Williamsburg, on reasonable Terms,
A NEAT Assortment of MILLINERY, &c viz. Caps dressed and undressed, Stomachers, Sleeve Knots, Silver Blond for making Do. and for trimming, Bath, Brussels, and Minionet Lace, Joining Do. for Hoods and Handkerchiefs, Net and Patent Hoods, Pieces of Patent Net for Handkerchiefs and Ruffles, Black and Blond Lace, Joing Do. for Hoods, Thread and Blond Edging, fine and coarse Catgut, Jacob's Ladder, Suits of Dresden Work, Hats and Bonnets, black, blue, white, and figured Satin for Cloaks, Lace Satin for Do. Chip, Hats, blue marking Thread, spotted, flowered, and plain Gauze Handkerchiefs and Aprons, white and coloured Fans with Ivory and Bone Sticks, rich white Satin, flowered, striped, and plain Lustrings, black, white, blue, and Pink Persians, Paste Necklaces and Earrings, Gold Lockets, Do. with Garnets, Paste, Garnet, and Foil Stone Crosses, Paste Combs and Buckles, Marcafite, Paste and Coque de Pearl Sprigs, Fancy Wax Necklaces, Wax, Coral, Agate, and real and mock Garnet Beads, Smelling Bottles, Paste Drop Earrings, Silver Toothpick Cases, plain and chased Carals, an Assortment of Thread, Ladies black, white, and blue Satin Hussars, black and white Beaver Hats for Do. Satin Hussars and Ostrich Feathers for Children, Silk, Kid, and Lamb Gloves and Mits, Pins and Needles, blue, white and red Satin, and black Stuff quilted Coats, Hair Rolls and Curls, black Pins, Cane for Bonnets, Bunch, Skeleton, and Cork Screw Wine, Hardham's Rappee No. 9, Weston's Scotch Snuff, Suits of Childbed Linen, Satin and Dimity Baskets, Pincushions and Lines, striped, plain, flowered, Book, and Yard and a Half wide thick Muslins, Dimity, Lace, Fringe, and Muslin, for Childrens Robes, Diaper Clouting, long Lawn, a Variety of Ribands, Wax Top and Drop Earrings, black and coloured Velvet Collars, Italian Breast Flowers, white and coloured Satin, embroidered, Queen's Silk, and Stuff Shoes for Ladies, Silk, Cotton, Thread, and Worsted Stockings, Didsbury's Shoes, Buckskin Gloves for Gentlemen, a Variety of Toys, dressed and undressed Babies, green Silk Purses, &c.
MARGARET HUNTER.

Hats, Bonnets, and Cloaks, made in the neatest Manner and newest Fashion.

(Virginia Gazette, Purdie and Dixon, eds., Oct. 15, 1772.)

There were two long notices in the Virginia Gazette for 1773 and two for 1774 — each by Margaret Hunter. Each notice emphasized as before that her millinery was "Just imported, and to be sold…on very reasonable Terms" and the assortment was "genteel" and fresh. Items not carried before (judging from former advertisements in the Virginia Gazette) were "Suits of Blond," "fine Suits of Dresden," "fine and coarse Chip Hats,". "Shennel," toys, umbrellas,

"Busts of the late Lord Botetourt,"

The advertisement listing the last mentioned article follows:

Just imported, and to be sold by the Subscriber, on very reasonable Terms, in Williamsburg,
A GENTEAL Assortment of MILLINERY in the newest Taste, Brussels, Minionet, and Blond Lace, a Variety of Coloured and White Silk Stockings, Thread and Cotton Do. Plain, Striped, and Sprigged Muslins, Jewellery, Childbed Linen, Robes, Didsbury's Shoes, Gresham's Satin and Calimenco Do. Do. Ladies Riding Hats, Children's Do. with Feathers, Satin Quilts, Gentlemens Embroidered Wistcoat Patterns, White Quilting for Ladies Petticoats, very fine Hyson Tea, Busts of the late Lord Botetourt, and many other Articles.
MARGARET HUNTER,(Virginia Gazette, Purdie and Dixon, eds., May 12, 1774)

Margaret Hunter's last notice in the Virginia Gazette (Purdie and Dixon, eds.) follows:

WILLIAMSBURG, February 3, 1780

I HAVE FOR SALE, at my store, opposite Mr. Ambrose Davenport's tavern, in this city, an elegant assortment of the most beautiful calico and chintz patterns, black and white gauze, and a small quantity of the best soap.
M. HUNTER.

N.B. I still carry on the milliners business, and would willingly take goods on commission, at a moderate advance.

JANE CHARLTON

As before stated, Jane Hunter married Edward Charlton, wig-maker and barber, of Williamsburg. She continued to maintain a store and advertised all kinds of goods — millinery among them. Mrs. Charlton gave notice in the Virginia Gazette (Purdie and Dixon, eds.) on October 24, 1771, that she had "Just IMPORTED in the Nancy, Captain BARRON, and to be SOLD on the most reasonable Terms, by the Subscriber, in Williamsburg, A GENTEEL Assortment of MILLINARY, SILKS, and JEWELLERY." Among the goods offered for sale were "flowered, white, and coloured Satins, Brocades, plain, striped, and coloured Lustrings, black and white Cloak Satins, Black and white Satin Cloaks, white and coloured Satin petticoats…Hats and Bonnets…Net Hoods…Chintz Colours, &c &c."

In May 1772, Mrs. Charlton advertised millinery along with the usual mercantile wares: "…Nosegays, Fancy, laced, and Gauze Caps…Boys blue Satin Caps…white Satins and Silks, coloured Silks, Trimmings for Ditto &c."(Ibid,. May 7, 1772.)

In October 1772 the Virginia Gazette carried notices by Mrs. Charlton of:

…A.Great Variety of fashionable figured white Lustrings, rich plain white Satin, flowered ditto, Brocades, striped and plain Lustrings, white and coloured Persians, white and black Cloak Satin, ditto Bonnets and Cloaks, ditto Mode…Blond 14 Dress Caps, Fancy ditto, plain Gauze ditto, Suits of Blond Lace, Brussels, Machlin, and Minionet Lace…white and black Blond Lace …rich suits of Dresden Work…Robes, James¹…Pincushions and Lines, a large Assortment of fashionable Ribands…White Feathers for caps…Cotton Thread, Lisle and Ounce ditto, Tapes, Bindings, Bobbin, &c.
JANE CHARLTON

? Cloaks, Bonnets, and all Sorts of Millinery, made in the newest fashion.

(Virginia Gazette, Purdie and Dixon, eds., Oct. 15, 1772)

In November 1774 Mrs. Charlton noted that "I find it necessary to go for England in the spring, it is hoped those ladies and gentlemen who have favoured me With their orders, and have not discharged them, will be kind enough to make payment as early as possible, that I may be enable to put my designs in execution; which will greatly add to the many obligations already conferred on their humble servant."(Virginia Gazette, Pinkney, ed., November 3 [4], 1774.)

M.BRODIE—Mantua-Maker

In October 1771 M. Brodie, mantua-maker, advertised from Williamsburg:

M. BRODIE, Just arrived from LONDON, Makes and trims, in the newest Taste, Sacks and Coats, Gowns and Petticoats, all Sorts of Ladies Brunswick and Jesuit Dresses, Sultana Robes, Robedecores, &c. She served her Time, and was Successour, to the original Makers, at their Warehouse in Pall Mall; her Partner still continues to carry on the Business in London, by whose Assistance, and that of the Queen's Mantua-Maker, she is every three Months to be supplied with the Fashions… Ladies whom it may not suit to come to Town may be fitted by sending her a Pattern. She lodges, till a more convenient House can be got, at Mrs. Rathell's Store, where Mr. Ayscough formerly lived, on the south side of the Capitol…(Virginia Gazette, Purdie and Dixon, eds., Oct. 24, 1771)

Mrs. Brodie continued in Williamsburg until 1775 when her departure was announced in the Virginia Gazette. (Purdie, editor, November 24, 1775.)

MARY DICKINSON—Milliner

Mary Dickinson operated a store and a millinery business in Williamsburg. Issues of the Virginia Gazette from April 19, 1770, to April 12, 1776, contain advertisements of Mrs. Dickinson's wares at various locations in the city — "William Holt's store," "next door to Mr. James Geddy's Shop," and "the Store above the Coffeehouse."

As with Catherine Rathell, Mary Dickinson plied her trade in Annapolis and in Williamsburg at the same time. The Maryland Gazette for September 1771 carried a notice from Mary Dickinson that her goods "Just imported from London" contained among other items: "elegant Assortment of Jewellery, Millinery, and other Goods…nice woolpacks with drop Curls…also Mens Stock Tape pleated…" In October 1771 Mary Dickinson had returned to her store in Williamsburg and was advertising her millinery and other goods "well chose" to her customers there. (For further study of Mary Dickinson in Williamsburg see Virginia Gazette, Purdie and Dixon, eds., April 19, 1770 supplement; November 22, 1770 supplement; October 17, 1771; April 30, 1772; and Purdie, ed., April 12, 1776.)

It is interesting to observe that M. Dickenson (Mary Dickinson) in September 1772 was located in Annapolis "next door to Mr. Hewitt, the Barber."(Maryland Gazette, September 24, 1772.) Hewitt had moved from Williamsburg to Annapolis in 1762. (Ibid., July. 8, 1762.)

MARY DAVENPORT—Milliner

Only one reference to Mary Davenport appears in the Virginia Gazette. She conducted a store "near the Capitol, Williamsburg" and sold millinery goods principally:

Just and imported, and to be SOLD by the Subscriber, near the Capitol, Williamsburg,
RICH white Satins, plain and flowered, plain white Lustrings, striped and flowered ditto, striped and spotted ditto, coloured ditto, Shot ditto, black ditto, coloured rich Ducapes, coloured Sarcenets for Summer Wear, fine white and coloured grounded Cottons, Trimmings of all Sorts, both Silk and Thread, Silver ditto, rich Satin quilted Petticoats, best Bombazeen, best Norwich Crape, Hat ditto, black Fans, white Silver-mounted Ivory and coloured ditto, Best Gresham's white, coloured, and black Satin Pumps, ditto Everlasting and Calimanco, Children's ditto, white Silk Stockings, fine Cotton ditto, white and black Silk Gloves and Mits, white and coloured Kid ditto, Pocket Handkerchiefs, Patheon Bonnets, Caps, Net Hoods, Purple and white Calicoes, Thread, Tapes, Silk Laces, Silk Ferrets, Persian Linings, black Gauze Riband, Lustring ditto, &c &c.
MARY DAVENPORT. (Virginia Gazette, Purdie and Dixon, eds., November 12, 1772)

There was a "French frock maker" in Williamsburg in 1791. (Galt Ms Book, June 8, 1791.).

Milliners and Haberdashers:

"Martha Wheatland and Sister Milleners & Haberdashers at Queen Charlott's Head Near Wood Street, Cheapside, London Sells all Sorts of Haberdashery & Fancy Millenery Goods at the Lowest Prices"(London Tradesmen's Cards of the XVIII Century by Ambrose Heal, London, 1925, Illustration LXVI)

Hat-Makers:

"Charles Paget Hatt-Maker at the Sign of the Black Boy and Hatt, near Red Lion Street, in High Holbourn, London. Makes Fine Beaver & other Hatts. Wholesale and Retale. N.B. Hatts Turn'd & Dyed."(Ibid., Illustration XLIV)

"Nathaniel Waters, Hat-Maker, From Philadelphia, At the Sign of the Hat-in-Hand, near the Church in Annapolis,…" (Maryland Gazette, April 22, 1756)

Mercers:

Benjamin Cole at the Sun in St Paul's Church-Yard London.(Illustration LIII, London Tradesmen's Cards…)

"Cranston Mercer from Round Court at the three Nuns & Wheatsheaf in Great Bridge Street Westminster Sell Variety of Silks and Stuffs… Hats, Bonnets,…" (Ibid., Illustration LIX)

"Wm Ryder & Ednd Nicklin Mercers, at the Indian Queen by the Cloisters, West-Smithfield, London Sell all Sorts of Rich Damasks, Brocaded Silks, Paduasoys, Tabbys, Sattins, Ducapes, Mantuas, Shagreens, Sergdusoys, Stript & Sprig's Lutestrings, Dutch Genoi & English Velvets, Black Silks, Bambazeens, Norwich Grapes, Poplins, Silk & Worsted Plads & Damasks, Broad & Narrow Camblets, Calamancoes, Super-fine Russels, with great Choice of Stuffs of every Sort, Hair Prunelloes & Princes Stuffs for Clergymen and Gentlemen of the Law, Fine Cloths and Duffins, Variety of Manteelets & Hoods, Short Clokes & Long Scarves, Quilted & Hoop Pettycoats, Ladys Riding Habits &c. Mens Gowns & Benyans, Widows Weeds…"(Ibid., Illustration LXI)

"Edward Argles… at ye Indian King London Sells Variety of Mercery Goods…"(Ibid., Illustration LXIII)